apologies for the dust

I thought some of my readers might enjoy reviews of less well-known eating establishments in Raleigh, so here's a mix up.

Waffle House

I grew up on the waffle house. They sell more steak, coffee, waffles, eggs, you name it in Georgia than any other restaurant chain, and there's a reason. Cannot recommend this place highly enough if it's 4am and you're hungry and don't want to let your companions go home quite yet.

Flying Saucer

The saucer is well known for its beer selection, and not so well for its food. This is as it should be. Highly recommended for their Belgian beers and comfy bar stools.

Hayes Barton Cafe and Dessert Bar

The desserts look great, but I've never quite been inside. They seem to close awfully early.

The Third Place Coffee House

A great place to visit if everything else is closed. And you want to hide from the rain. I'd steer clear of the Iced Chai, especially after drinking beer. I quite recommend the Blondies.

Restaurant Savannah

This restaurant had a strong start, followed by an unfortunate chef change. Ours was one of two active tables at 9pm on Friday night, which means this place is not long for this world. Excellent spicy asian ribs, and the sweet potato fries were rolled in a cinnamon sugar and could have been served as a dessert course.

April and Georges

One of few genuine wine bars in the Raleigh area. Service is so so, but they're quite willing to keep serving glasses until you find one that you like. Which is a good thing if your drinking companion has very particular tastes :)

Tres Magueyes

Affectionately known as "tres" to the locals, this Mexican eatery is a true no-frills establishment, but it's fast and friendly. Very colorful atmosphere, especially if you sit at one of the tables with fresh flowers.

J&S Pizzeria

Located in Apex, this is definitely one of the best places to find authentic NY pizza in the triangle area.

MR Wings

Conveniently located in the same shopping center as J&S, this Buffalo-based chain does it right. Is it just me, or is everything from Buffalo delicious? You know, except for the Bills.

518 West

A great place if you're looking for an italian meal that's a step up from Cinelli's in terms of atmosphere and menu complexity. "The Crab", a dish with lump crab meat served over angel hair pasta with a dill cream sauce, is my recommendation. The chicken parmasagna came in a healthy portion and looked delicious, but unfortunately this reviewer was unable to react with appropriate speed.

Don't let the website fool you, this is no casual Italian eatery.

censored

By far the best meal in this review is from an establishment that I refuse to share with my readers. I realize that, as an outspoken lover of fine food, I have a certain responsibility to help bring positive attention to those restaurants that rise above the bar. It's a mutually beneficial relationship, with hopes that additional diners will support those top-tier restaurants, and keep them open for my next visit, or better yet, bring more dining opportunities to the area.

In certain cases, however, I do worry that an influx of additional guests will put an undue strain on an establishment, and thus negatively affect the quality. This is a decision I do not make lightly; but in this specific case, I think the establishment is supporting itself quite admirably without my help. :)

The atmosphere was crowded, but comfortable, and decorated impeccably. Service was curt, but friendly; at a small establishment, it's not unusual for the kitchen staff to double as wait staff, and that was particuarly noticeable during the wait for dinner. For the appetizer, the menu listed a simple toast with olive oil; evidently there was some problem in the kitchen. I'll admit that when I smelled smoke, I thought it best not to inquire.

The main course was a tour de force in culinary creativity. A simple but perfectly prepared peasant chicken (olive oil with garlic and mirepoix) was transformed -- nay, evolved -- with a chardonnay sauce with just the right touch of acidic bite. I inquired of the chef afterwards; in addition to the expected chardonnay reduction, a few tablespoons of chardonnay vinegar brought acidity without drowning the flavor profile.

The chicken was served with the mirepoix on the side as a vegetable, and also with a delicious sliced buttered potato dish. Apparently this was a closely guarded family secret, so the chef was cagey despite all my efforts to pry out the recipe. My guess is red potatoes, sliced and cooked with onions and butter, and seasoned with salt and pepper -- but I'll just have to get in the kitchen and start experimenting.

Dessert was an oatmeal-based crisp with green apples, served a la mode -- vanilla bean ice cream (the best kind of ice cream, by far). The wait for dessert was notable, but between the sweet tea and the wine (a chardonnay and a pinot grigio, neither notable but both enjoyable) it was tolerable. And it was certainly worth the wait; my appetite returned much more quickly than I would have imagined after stuffing myself on the previous course. I even requested a second order to take home, thinking it would make a perfect breakfast.

Overall, in spite of the rather saucy wait staff, and a considerable wait for a table (it's a very small establishment), this was one of the most enjoyable meals I've had in ages. I can't recommend this establishment enough to my readers -- and so, my apologies, I will not. :)

Rub's Smokehouse

Having eaten a laws-of-physics-defying amount the night before, even the tasty (and colossal) pork ribs at Rub's weren't enough to encourage my appetite. The country-style ribs are cooked with the namesake dry rub. The coleslaw is heavy on mayonnaise and celery salt, which I sometimes enjoy with seafood but not as much with barbeque, especially with any molasses-based sauces nearby. The baked beans are a highlight, with four varieties of beans and a strong flavor of cooked molasses.