suggested pairing

As promised, a little late but 100% worth it.

I have a confession to make: I'm apparently addicted to Enoteca Vin. I've managed to go four times in two weeks.

The first was for my birthday, and I don't remember much of that happy occasion except that the bruleed Turkish figs made me wonder why I don't eat figs more often.

Heirloom Tomato dinner

The second was for an heirloom tomato dinner. Craig Lehoullier has been preserving varieties of heirloom tomatoes for years, swapping seeds across the nation, and with his help Ashley put together a divine menu. Special thanks to a very lovely lady for making the evening special, and doom to her for being happily married ;)

The amuse bouche was something I'd never seen, a shot glass filled with a clear tomato broth, served with a splash of basil oil and a small floating cherry tomato. Taking a "shot" of soup and then catching the tomato was a new experience. So I'd say the amuse bouche did its job!

First course was a N.C. lump crap salad with marinated Evergreen and Black Prince tomatoes, avocado, and basil. As usual, simple and focused on the quality ingredients. We devoured this.

Second course was a sweet corn risotto with Cherokee purple tomatoes and basil. I must admit, we did remark that, while tomatoes and basil do pair beautifully, the final course had better be basil-free. This was a simple, clean dish, and the sweet white corn in the risotto improved both texture and flavor.

Third course was pork tenderloin with pasta kerchief and George Stripe tomatoes. The kerchief was an interesting presentation; a single large square of thin pasta covered a bed of arugula, and the sliced tenderloin sat atop the pasta. This was tasty, but the peppery spice of the arugula harmonized with other pepper in the dish and made for a spiciness that felt out of place.

And OH we were disappointed that Ashley had no clever dessert presentation, no tomato sorbet. Maybe next year! :)

Mondavi tasting

And a mere four days later I was back, this time for a Robert Mondavi wine tasting. This would include a range of different reserve varietals from the current vintage, plus a vertical tasting of reserve cabernets.

The dining was appropriately low-key. We all remarked on the okra, which was sliced lengthwise and fried, then served with a frothy tomato sauce.

On to the wines:
2004 Fume Blanc. Acid to the point of acrid, with no redeeming characteristics. My notes say "like a painful nose laser", and this was at the start of the evening before the wine had kicked in.

2003 Fume Blanc Reserve, To Kalon Vineyard. Much more pleasant. Bright nose, almost deceptively so as the taste was a much calmer melon flavor than the previous wine. Unfortunately the wine was ruined by a finish marred by overoaking.

2004 Chardonnay Reserve, Carneros, Napa. A pleasant chard, with apple and hints of banana, much lighter vanilla, and a very pronounced caramel aftertaste that many will enjoy.

2003 Pinot Noir Reserve, Napa. Dark plum and earth notes hit the nose and carry through, but again Mondavi has taken a pleasant enough wine and taken it out back and beaten it to death with the oak stick. Much too spicy from the oak, and it builds uncomfortably; my companions said that it was noticeable on one sip, unpleasant on two, and undrinkable on three.

2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa. They say that after eating cheese, even expert tasters lose their ability to compare wines. After one sip, we ate the cheese. Enough said.

1990 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve. This was the showpiece, and for a reason. An strong but quite pleasant tobacco nose precedes a rich wine with cassis and berry notes. Perfectly balanced fruit and acidity, perfect structure, just overall an excellent wine. Unfortunately this was pulled from Robert Mondavi's own cellar as part of the winery's 40th anniversary and is no longer available for purchase. Yet another example of Something I Can Never Have. :)

1992 and 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve. I'll admit to horse trading these for a glass of 1990 from one of my dinner companions. Neither was as enjoyable, though both were pleasant.

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Napa. Strong smoky tones hit the palate on first sip. I did not score this wine given that it was my 9th full glass of the evening. Given that 95% of wine is drunk within 48 hours of purchase, Mondavi has decided to change their formulation to make their wines drinkable upon release. The tannins were much less complex / interesting than an aged wine, but it was certainly drinkable upon release. Can't decide if this is a good thing or not -- probably, it's something we'll all regret in 2006-1990=16 years.

Excellent fun was had by all. Thanks to Ashley and crew!