'twere well it were done quickly

Time does fly when one is having fun, which I'm lucky to be experiencing in spades these days. I do have a few restaurants I must share, and I promise to catch up...

Our ultra-exclusive G Thang party has come and gone. I've got to share the invitation, which exposes my Caucasian stylings better than any banana republic polo shirt could:

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What: G Thang Party
Where: Mike's crib
Why: To kick a little something for the G's
When: Saturday August 19th, 9pm
Until: the ladies in the living room ain't leavin til 6 in the mornin...
Hosts: A dana, mike, and suzy joint
Who: If you know the hosts, you are in

The Double-Dee-A-N-A will whip up a crazy menu to beat those munchies. DJ SuzyScribbles will be spinning the wheels with mad hiphop and old school jams so you can bounce to this. And Busta Capps will prep the bar with all your rap favorites: Gin and Juice, Hennessy, Seagrams, Courvoisier, Tanqueray, Brass Monkey. We'll even keep the eight ball rollin' with some o-no-you-dint 40 dogs. Oh yes, we did.

And check our first annual Crunk Cup throw down. You don't want to sip the gin and juice out no wankster dixie cup, holmes! Duckets and mad props go to Biggest Crunk Cup, That-Ain't-Crunk!est Crunk Cup, and the grand prize, Crunkest Crunk Cup.

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The props went to Sarah for biggest cup, Robbie for least crunk, Suzy for the late-addition-category-due-to-bribing-the-judge Prettiest crunk cup. Shane's masterpiece took the big prize. Check out the pictures of those cups, and more.

Port Land Grille

But the real reason we're here is to talk about food, not crunk cups. Allow me to offer a brief but powerful homage to the Port Land Grille in Wilmington, NC. The decor is casual and elegant, with bay windows overlooking a landscaped patio in Lumina Station, a small shopping center. We were there to celebrate, so we started with champagne -- they were out of Moet et Chandon White Star, which turned out to be great luck, as they did have the Moet et Chandon White Star Rose'. That was absolutely the best glass of champagne I've ever had, and I've been lucky enough to taste Mumm's finest straight from the magnum in the cellars in Reims, France. (brag, brag) White Star is a dependable bottle, but the Rose is simply brilliant. The Dom-like dry bite one expects is tempered with a rounder fruit and hints of strawberries, and overall it's a much more pleasant experience.

They had a champagne tasting menu, items for each course chosen to pair with champagne. On a lark we picked the 'shake and bake' fries, sweet potato fries tossed in truffle oil and parmesan with a roasted red pepper dijon mayo. The earthiness of the truffles fit very well with the sweet potatoes and nuttiness of the cheese. Still some question about how well this paired with the champagne, but I think we felt anything was an interruption. :)

For the main, I had the grilled mongolian style berkshire double cut pork chop. This was an enormous double stacked pork chop, basted in a sweet & sour plum barbeque sauce. The sides were vanilla mashed sweet potatoes, which could have been served as a dessert course, and an asian slaw. Any individual flavor was almost too acid or sweet, but combined together it was just perfect. With a double cut pork chop, the danger is always even preparation, and I'll admit they fell down a bit here, with a dramatically undercooked center. But honestly, there was more than plenty to eat even when skipping the center, and it was absolutely delicious.

The absence of a soup or salad thus far in the description can indicate only one thing, and that's dessert. :) For some reason, they arrived staggered. The first was the specialty bananas foster tiramisu, a brilliant idea indeed. Instead of lady fingers, banana bread was used; instead of coffee, a banana liquor, I'm guessing. Admittedly we devoured this... The second dessert, a brownie 'napoleon' sundae, arrived when the first was almost gone. We enjoyed this less, but it's difficult to say whether that was due to our being so full. The description said it was served with a banana bon bon, and not knowing what this was but not wanting to split only one, we asked the waiter for a few extra. Turns out this was a banana sliced on angle, frozen, then dipped in chocolate and nuts, and those we certainly found room for.

Many thanks to the waiter for satisfying that, and every other request. Overall the dinner was an excellent experience. The food was solid minus a few missteps, but the atmosphere and excellent service carried the day, and it's certainly recommended.

apologies for the dust

I thought some of my readers might enjoy reviews of less well-known eating establishments in Raleigh, so here's a mix up.

Waffle House

I grew up on the waffle house. They sell more steak, coffee, waffles, eggs, you name it in Georgia than any other restaurant chain, and there's a reason. Cannot recommend this place highly enough if it's 4am and you're hungry and don't want to let your companions go home quite yet.

Flying Saucer

The saucer is well known for its beer selection, and not so well for its food. This is as it should be. Highly recommended for their Belgian beers and comfy bar stools.

Hayes Barton Cafe and Dessert Bar

The desserts look great, but I've never quite been inside. They seem to close awfully early.

The Third Place Coffee House

A great place to visit if everything else is closed. And you want to hide from the rain. I'd steer clear of the Iced Chai, especially after drinking beer. I quite recommend the Blondies.

Restaurant Savannah

This restaurant had a strong start, followed by an unfortunate chef change. Ours was one of two active tables at 9pm on Friday night, which means this place is not long for this world. Excellent spicy asian ribs, and the sweet potato fries were rolled in a cinnamon sugar and could have been served as a dessert course.

April and Georges

One of few genuine wine bars in the Raleigh area. Service is so so, but they're quite willing to keep serving glasses until you find one that you like. Which is a good thing if your drinking companion has very particular tastes :)

Tres Magueyes

Affectionately known as "tres" to the locals, this Mexican eatery is a true no-frills establishment, but it's fast and friendly. Very colorful atmosphere, especially if you sit at one of the tables with fresh flowers.

J&S Pizzeria

Located in Apex, this is definitely one of the best places to find authentic NY pizza in the triangle area.

MR Wings

Conveniently located in the same shopping center as J&S, this Buffalo-based chain does it right. Is it just me, or is everything from Buffalo delicious? You know, except for the Bills.

518 West

A great place if you're looking for an italian meal that's a step up from Cinelli's in terms of atmosphere and menu complexity. "The Crab", a dish with lump crab meat served over angel hair pasta with a dill cream sauce, is my recommendation. The chicken parmasagna came in a healthy portion and looked delicious, but unfortunately this reviewer was unable to react with appropriate speed.

Don't let the website fool you, this is no casual Italian eatery.

censored

By far the best meal in this review is from an establishment that I refuse to share with my readers. I realize that, as an outspoken lover of fine food, I have a certain responsibility to help bring positive attention to those restaurants that rise above the bar. It's a mutually beneficial relationship, with hopes that additional diners will support those top-tier restaurants, and keep them open for my next visit, or better yet, bring more dining opportunities to the area.

In certain cases, however, I do worry that an influx of additional guests will put an undue strain on an establishment, and thus negatively affect the quality. This is a decision I do not make lightly; but in this specific case, I think the establishment is supporting itself quite admirably without my help. :)

The atmosphere was crowded, but comfortable, and decorated impeccably. Service was curt, but friendly; at a small establishment, it's not unusual for the kitchen staff to double as wait staff, and that was particuarly noticeable during the wait for dinner. For the appetizer, the menu listed a simple toast with olive oil; evidently there was some problem in the kitchen. I'll admit that when I smelled smoke, I thought it best not to inquire.

The main course was a tour de force in culinary creativity. A simple but perfectly prepared peasant chicken (olive oil with garlic and mirepoix) was transformed -- nay, evolved -- with a chardonnay sauce with just the right touch of acidic bite. I inquired of the chef afterwards; in addition to the expected chardonnay reduction, a few tablespoons of chardonnay vinegar brought acidity without drowning the flavor profile.

The chicken was served with the mirepoix on the side as a vegetable, and also with a delicious sliced buttered potato dish. Apparently this was a closely guarded family secret, so the chef was cagey despite all my efforts to pry out the recipe. My guess is red potatoes, sliced and cooked with onions and butter, and seasoned with salt and pepper -- but I'll just have to get in the kitchen and start experimenting.

Dessert was an oatmeal-based crisp with green apples, served a la mode -- vanilla bean ice cream (the best kind of ice cream, by far). The wait for dessert was notable, but between the sweet tea and the wine (a chardonnay and a pinot grigio, neither notable but both enjoyable) it was tolerable. And it was certainly worth the wait; my appetite returned much more quickly than I would have imagined after stuffing myself on the previous course. I even requested a second order to take home, thinking it would make a perfect breakfast.

Overall, in spite of the rather saucy wait staff, and a considerable wait for a table (it's a very small establishment), this was one of the most enjoyable meals I've had in ages. I can't recommend this establishment enough to my readers -- and so, my apologies, I will not. :)

Rub's Smokehouse

Having eaten a laws-of-physics-defying amount the night before, even the tasty (and colossal) pork ribs at Rub's weren't enough to encourage my appetite. The country-style ribs are cooked with the namesake dry rub. The coleslaw is heavy on mayonnaise and celery salt, which I sometimes enjoy with seafood but not as much with barbeque, especially with any molasses-based sauces nearby. The baked beans are a highlight, with four varieties of beans and a strong flavor of cooked molasses.

gramercy, milady

I was fortunate enough to travel to New York last week for a Gears of War press event -- Microsoft's Games Unwrapped event. The first day was for "Nice" children, and focused on games like Lego Star Wars, and publications like Marie Claire; Gears was relegated to the back of the room. On the second "Naughty" day, the publications were Playboy and FHM, and Gears was front and center. We also cleared the room in the afternoon for an alcohol-enhanced multiplayer session, and I was very gratified to see the press so excited playing the game.

La Locanda Dei Vini

But of course the real reason I went to New York was ... to eat. Memorable moments include walking into an Italian restaurant on the street corner, only to discover it was a Wine Spectator award winner. Fantastic risotto, with very earthy wild mushrooms and sausage. And a devastating barolo which I promptly forgot the name of, still kicking myself for that.

Magnolia Bakery

On the second day we ordered cupcakes from the Magnolia bakery, made famous by its cookbooks and an appearance on Sex and the City. The chocolate cupcakes were a little dry, but the vanilla were perfect, and the buttercreme frosting was just right. Opening the box felt like opening a box of flowers, just beautiful. Tim tried to buy two dozen, but the store limited him to 18. Rather than their usual one dozen limit. Which I think says it all.

Apparently everything in New York was made famous by Sex and the City. I even went to the Manolo Blahnik shoe store, just to see what all the fuss was about, but they were closed as they transitioned to their fall line. Probably for the best ;)

Gramercy Tavern

The Gramercy Tavern dinner was, well, legendary. I foolishly assumed the summer tasting menu would be available on the website for me to copy from, and I'm out of luck. From memory made hazy by an unbelievable wine pairing:

* Amuse bouche was a simple garlic toast with a dollop of white bean puree and a dollop of salsa verde. The salsa was bursting with flavors of cilantro and basil, and that's when we knew we were in for a treat.

* Langostino in a frothy cream sauce, with what I recall were diced tomatillos? Everyone at the table was enchanted. This was the best lobster (or lobster-like) that I've ever had, and everyone else said the same.

* Other treats included a lamb main course, which Laura foolishly said she would not enjoy -- I almost stabbed her with my fork as I stole one of her chops.

* A whopping three desserts. First a palate cleanser, a bowl of coconut tapioca with a simple cookie, topped with bitingly sharp mango sorbet. The tapioca was topped with basil oil; I thought I'd heard incorrectly, but it worked brilliantly. The sorbet was like a laser to the brain pan, but it did the trick. For the main dessert, the option was a seven layer chocolate/caramel cake and ice cream; or a pistachio cake with honey lemon ice cream. I'm missing loads of detail here, but it was divine. As we pushed back from the table in relief, they returned with two plates of chocolate truffles; unfortunately, those were tasty as well, and so down it went.

But the real treat that night was the wine pairing, for two reasons. First, the list consisted of rare varietals. I'm accustomed to having new wines with a pairing, but rarely a new grape -- and five of the varietals were completely new to me. Second, my companions were all wine drinkers, but not really familiar with a good pairing. They'd taste the wine, and be quite skeptical about the sweetness of say the Moscato or the spiciness of the Kekfrankos. But when they waited to try them with the appropriate course, they were absolutely convinced, and that was great to see. Here's the list, varietal listed first. Apologies for transcription errors, the handwriting was rough.

1. Chardonnay/Welschriesling. Kracher, Austria, 2003.
2. Moscato Giallo. Lageder, Alto Adige, Italy, 2005.
3. Chasselas. Shoffit, Alsace, France, 2004.
4. Schippettino. Roncal, Fruili, Italy, 2004.
5. Kekfrankos. Takler, Szekszard, Hungary, 2003.
6. Mavrodaphny. Commanderia St. John, Cyprus, Greece.
7. Monastrell. Olivares, Jumilla, Spain, 2003.

The grassy, mineral character of the Chasselas was generally reviled by all, both before and after food. Otherwise, all the wines were enjoyed greatly. The Olivares dessert wine had a rich chocolate flavor that went beautifully with dinner. The deep red, light bodied Kekfrankos had an insanely spicy kick at the end, like a Zinfindel on adrenaline.

Overall an evening to remember. Not sure if it's my favorite restaurant dining experience, or second to Michael Mina in San Francisco.

Nobu

On Thursday we went to the original Nobu. I've been to Nobu a number of times in Las Vegas and have always enjoyed it, but somehow, I simply don't feel compelled to write about this meal. The company was superb!

Tao Restaurant

Yet another Sex and the City stop, known for its hip lounge and its massive Buddha statue as much as the food. We were celebrating Sarah's birthday, so I pulled out the stops and loaded the lazy susan with a sampling of each of their appetizers. The sushi and shu mai were competent; the black miso sea bass was quite tasty, and the peking duck egg rolls were very nice, though some complained of the saltiness.

For dinner, we had more sea bass, a fantastic peking duck that was the highlight of the evening, a simple spiced shrimp dish, and wasabi-crusted filet mignon -- which I refused to let my companions order cooked more than medium ;)

For dessert they brought Sarah a giant fortune cookie, partially coated with chocolate, and stuffed with a chocolate mousse on one side and vanilla ice cream on the other. I assumed this was a gimmick dessert, but the cookie was surprisingly tasty, and overall it was a clever presentation and one I'd recommend.

oh yeah

And I went to a few museums and did some shopping and stuff.